Friday, April 12, 2013

Homemade Cleansing Balm/Homemade balzam za ciscenje lica


        In the post where I talked about face cleansing products, I mentioned how much  I loved using my homemade cleansing balm. I was asked by Mira to write a post on how I make it, and I'm more than happy to do it. 

        U jednom od postova koji se tice ciscenja koze pomenula sam kako obozavam da koristim moj homemade balzam za ciscenje lica. Kako me je Mira pitala da napisem post o tome kako ga ja pravim, sva srecna sam prionula na posao.

        In the last few years, it seems that using oil for skin cleansing has become the next big thing. Clinique, Emma Hardie, Suti, Organic Surge and many other companies have decided to come out with their own cleansing balms. The emphasis is put on good quality ingredients, smell of the product and packaging. So, when I started to make 'my version' of this cleanser, I followed the same logic.

        U poslednjih par godina koriscenje ulje za ciscenje koze je postalo neverovatno popularno. Clinique, Emma Hardia, Suti, Organic Surge i mnoge druge kompanije su odlucile da trzistu predstave svoje balzame za ciscenje lica. Akcenat se stavlja na sastojke koji su dobrog kvaliteta, na miris proizvoda i pakovanje. Kada sam ja pocela da pravim 'svoju verziju' ovog balzama, pratila sam tu logiku.

        Let's start with he ingredients. Always try to use pure, organic base oils, otherwise there'll be no real benefits for your skin. What is also very important is the kind of skin you have - oily, dry or sensitive skin won't be able to use the exactly same ingredients, the whole point in you making this is in adjusting it to fit your skin type perfectly. As I have dry and sensitive skin, I will use some more heavier, more hydrating oils and butters, but I'll give some suggestions for those of you who have oily skin. 

        Hajde da pocnemo od sastojaka. Uvek koristite cista, organska bazna ulja, jer u suprotnom vasa koza nece imati nikakvih koristi od ovog proizvoda. Takodje je veoma bitno da znate kakvu kozu imate - masna, suva ili osetljiva koza nece moci da upostrebaljavaju identicne sastojke, sto je ok, jer je poenta pravljenja balzama u tome da ga savrseno prilagodite svom tipu koze. Kako imam suvu i osetljivu kozu, ja cu da koristim malo teza i hidratantnija ulja i butere, ali cu istovremeno da preporucujem ulja koja bi vise odgovarala ljudima sa masnijom kozom.


I order to get 60gr of the product, you will need the following ingredients:

Za dobijanje 60gr finalnog proizvoda, potrebni su vam sledeci sastojci:

Beeswax     9gr                             Pcelinji vosak    9gr
Coconut oil 15gr                            Kokosovo ulje   15gr
Shea butter 5gr                             Shea buter        5 gr
Castor oil   20gr                             Ricinusovo ulje  20 gr
Rosehip oil 10 gr                            Ulje sipurka      10 gr
2-3 Vitamin E capsule                    2-3 kapsule vitamina E
20-30 drops of sweet orange      20-30 kapi ulja slatke narandze
 essential oil



        First off, you'll need some beeswax. I get mine from a relative, but you can also find it at a green market (just look for the people who sell honey, they must have it). You will have to grate it (I use a potato peeler) because it will melt much faster.

       Najpre ce vam biti potreban pcelinji vosak. Ja ovaj dobijam od rodjaka, ali mozete da ga nadjete i na pijaci, potrazite ljude koji prodaju domaci med, sigurno imaju. Moracete da ga izrendate (ja koristim ljustilicu za krompir).

        Coconut oil is a must for me, as it's very hydrating but also antibacterial properties and will work on drawing out the impurities from your skin. Make sure you buy unrefined, organic coconut oil. If you're afraid it might break you out, try using jojoba or almond oil. However, I doubt you will have any negative experience with this oil, and it's so good for the skin, that I would dare take the risk.

        Kokosovo ulje je meni neophodno, pored toga sto je hidratantno, ono ima i antibakterijska svojstva i radi na izvlacenju necistoca iz vase koze. Obratite paznju da uzmete nerafinisano, organsko kokosovo ulje (moje je iz Beyond-a, ovo mi je 5-6 teglica, koristim ga za sve i svasta). Ako se plasite da vam se ne pojave bubuljice od njega mozete da koristite ili jojobu ili bademovo ulje umesto njega. Medjutim, iskreno sumnjam da ce vam se bilo sta lose javiti zbog njega,a kako znam koliko je on dobar za kozu, rekla bih vam, rizikujte, probajte, i da se nesto desi, nece ospice da vas izbiju, mozda izadje bubuljica ili dve.

        Shea Butter is optional, I use it because I happen to have it and it makes my skin feel good. It's very moisturizing and works well with my dry skin. Now, some people say that it's extremely comedogenic, other say it's not at all, but for me it's amazing. Sometimes, I use it on my skin instead of face cream and I've never had any bad reaction, I guess you have to try it in order to know if it's good or bad for you. Again, it must be unrefined and organic. As it's quite expensive, I suggest you skip it and just use 5gr more of coconut oil.

        Shea buter nije neophodan, ja ga korisitm jer se zadesilo da ga imam i bas prija mojoj kozi. Veoma je hidratantan i super se slaze sa mojom suvom kozom. Sada, neki kazu da je izuzetno komedogen, drugi pak tvrde da nije nimalo, a ja tvrdim da je apsolutno izvanredan. Ponekad ga na lice koristim umesto kreme i do sada nikada nisam imala nikakvu losu reakciju, ali ipak ovo je jedan od onih porizvoda koje morate da probate da biste znali da li vam odgovara ili ne. Opet, ako ga koristitie, budite sigurni da je nerafinisan i organski. Kako je poprilicno skup, predlazem da ga preskocite i umesto njega dodate 5 gr kokosovog ulja.  Ja sam moj nabavila sa sajta melissa-biokozmetika kada je bio na super popustu.


        Now, I would measure out the butters and beeswax and put in in a small pan and onto the stove. It will take less than a minute for everything to melt. (the most important part is to wait for all the beeswax to melt otherwise when it cools off, you'll have these little pieces of unmelted wax in your cleanser) As soon as everything is melted, you add the liquid oils.

        Ovako, ja odmerim vosak i ove butere i stavim u malu serpicu pa na sporet da se rastopi (obicno na dvojku). Bice potrebno nesto manje od minut dok se sve ne rastopi (najbitnije je da se vosak rastopi, u suprotnom, kada se ovo ohladi, imacete parcice neistopljenog voska u vasem balzamu). Cim je sve istopljeno, odmah u to dosipajte tecna ulja.



        When it comes to liquid oils, Castor oil is of absolute importance. It is the 'miracle' ingredient that works on cleansing the skin and removing the oil that's trapped in the skin, just like coconut oil, it draws out the impurities. I have to warn you, if you have problematic skin, you might break out soon after using this, but that actually means that the castor oil is working, it's getting all the dirt onto the surface of the skin, and once it's out, you'll be left with great skin. That didn't happen to me but only because before starting to use this cleansing balm, I have spent some 6 months using nothing but natural oils on my skin and I had already gone through that process.

        Kada su u pitanju tecna ulja, ricinusovo je najbitnije. To je taj 'magicni' sastojak koji radi na ciscenju vase koze i uklanjanju viska ulja koje je zarobljeno u kozi i poput kokosovog ulja, izvlaci necistoce. Moram da vas upozorim, ako imate problematicnu kozu, desava se da vam se pojavi jos bubuljica kada pocnete da koristitie ovo, ali to u stvari znaci da ricinusovo ulje radi svoj posao, ono dovlaci svu prljavstinu na povrsinu koze i kada je jednom ukloni, ostaje vam cista koza. Ta faza 'ciscenja koze moze da potraje i mesec dana. Meni se to nije desilo, ali ja sam pre upotrebe ovog balzama jedno pola godine umesto kreme koristila samo ulje, pa sam vec bila prosla kroz to. 

        Rosehip oil, because I have it and because it's natural source of vitamin A (and we all are getting older, so we need some anti-oxidants to fight those free radicals in out skin). It's good for people with oilier skin, as it's very light, it is one of those 'dry' oils, which means that once it's absorbed into the skin, it doesn't leave a greasy residue. 

        Ulje sipurka, zato sto se zadesilo da ga imam i zato sto je prirodan izvor vitamina A (a kako mi samo postajemo stariji, potrebni su nam anti-oksidansi da se bore protiv slobodnih radikala u kozi). Dobar je za ljude koji imaju masniju kozu jer je veoma lagano, spada u ona 'suva' ulja, sto znaci da kada ga koza upije ne ostaje onaj masni trag na kozi.

        Vitamin E, which is a natural preservative and is very good for the skin. I get mine in softgels and I simply pierce it with a needle and squeeze out the content. 

        Vitamin E, koji je prirodni konzervans i veoma je dobar za kozu. Ja moj nabavljam u formi ovih softgel kapusla koje izbusim iglom i iscedim ulje iz njih.



        And now, the tools. You will obviously need a small pan for melting the butters and beeswax, a potato peeler (or anything else that you can use to grate the beeswax) and this little mixer. I use it once I have mixed the melted butters and beeswax with liquid oils. I stir the hot content with a teaspoon, and let it cool for about 3-4 minutes. You will notice that the mixture is changing the texture as the wax is cooling and hardening - it will go from super shiny (while the mixture is still hot and in a liquid form) to a more mat (that means that the wax has started hardening) Then, I use the frappe mixer and 5-6 times just press the button - the point is to lightly whip the mixture but not to do it for too long. Touch your balm and if you find that it's not too warm, add 20-30 drops of some kind of sweet orange essential oil ( you can also use lavender, tea tree,especially if you have oily skin. If you are using these essential oils, DO NOT  use 20-30 drops, try with 10 drops, as they are very potent and too high concentration might slightly burn your skin).

        Vreme je da pomenemo sta nam je od pribora potrebno. Ocigledno, mala serpica je neophodna, jer treba rastopiti butere i pcelinji vosak, ljustilica za krompir (ili bilo sta drugu cime mozete da izrendate vosak) i mutilica za nes. Ja je koristim nakon sto sam pomesala rastopljene butere i vosak sa tecnim uljima. Tu mesavinu pomesam kasicicom i ostavim 3-4 minuta da se prohladi. Primeticete da se tekstura smese menja - ici ce od jako sjajne (dok su ulja jos uvek vruca i u tecnom stanju) do mat (sto znaci da je vosak poceo da se steze) Tada, 5-6 puta pritisnem dugme na mutilici, tek da blago ulupa smesu  - poenta je da se ne muti predugo. Pipnite balzam i proverite da li je i dalje vreo ili je tek pomalo vruckast. Ako nije previse topao, dodajte 20-30 kapi etericnog ulja slatke narandze (mozete da koristite i lavandu ili cajevac, posebno ako je vasa koza sklona mascenju i bubuljicama. Ako resite da koristire ova etericna ulja PAZITE da ne stavite vise od 10 kapi, jer su ona dosta jaka i prevelika koncentracija moze da blago izgori kozu).



        For the end, let's talk packaging. If you have invested so much in making your own product, I feel you will want to put it in something nice. I rarely throw any containers away, as I can always clean and re-use them. The big container that has the balm in it is from an old Lancome face cream and the small one I use when I travel, it holds about 4-days worth of product in it. It was a tester of some kind, and it's so tiny it will barely take any space - great if you're traveling by plane and you want to use something to remove your makeup while on the plane but you can't fit any of the big cleansers in your carry on ( I never seem to be able to fit anything in my carry on ).

        Za kraj, hajde da pomenemo ambalazu. Ako ste vec ulozili i vreme i novac u pravljenje svog proizvoda, mislim da cete zeleti da on bude u necemu lepom. Ja retko kada bacam kutijice i teglice, jer uvek mozete da ih iskoristite za nesto drugo. Velika teglica u kojoj je balzam je od stare Lankomove kreme a ovu malu koristim kada putujem, u nju stane taman onoliko koliko treba za jedno 4 dana. Ta mala je bila neki tester, ali je toliko minijaturna da gotovo ne zauzima nimalo prostora - odlicna je ako putujete avionom i planirate da skinete sminku dok ste u avionu ali ne mozete da u rucni prtljag smestite neke vece cistace za lice (ja nikada ne mogu nista korisno da smetim u rucni prtljag).

        Once your balm is cooled down and ready to use, you will do the following. I apply a pea sized amount on dry skin, on both of my cheeks  forehead and neck and then start massaging it. If you have any eye makeup, make sure to gently massage it in that area too. It will remove everything, even the waterproof mascara. If you have a lot of makeup, as the balm removes it, your face might become slightly brownish or gray (it's your dissolved makeup mixed with he balm). After a minute or two, I got to the sink and use a small cotton towel (or a muslin clothe, if you have them), I wet it with really hot water, wring it out and then just throw it on my face. The warmth of the towel creates the sauna effect on the skin and opens up the pores. After 20-30 seconds, the towel will become cold, then you just wipe your face and splash it with a bit of water. And you're done.

        Kada se vas balzam za ciscenje ohladio i spreman je za upotrebu, radite sledece. Ja obicno nanesem kolicinu velicine graska na suvu kozu, na oba obraza, celo i vrat i pocnem da masiram lice. Ako imate sminku na ocima, ne zaboravite da lagano umasirate proizvod i na taj deo lica. Otklonice sve, cak i vodootpornu maskaru. Ako imate puno sminke, kada balzam pocne da rastvara ulje koje se nalazi u njoj, vase lice moze da postane pomalo braonkasto ili sivkasto ( to je vasa sminka rastvorena u balzamu) Posle minut-dva, uzmete mali pamucni peskiric (ili neku krpicu od muslina), nakvasite je bas jako toplom vodom, iscedite i odmah stavite na lice. Toplota peskirica stvara sauna efekat na kozi i otvara pore. Nakon 20-30 sekundi, kada se peskiric ohladi, samo obrisite balzam sa lica, i umijte se pomalo hladnom vodom da osvezite kozu. I to je to.

        One important thing to remember is that you shouldn't use the same towel more than once, as the bacteria will grow and develop. I have about 10 towels, and as I use them, I let them air dry and keep them in a separate hamper and once a week I boil them in a pan with some washing detergent. And also, if you have a lot of makeup on your face, when you wipe it with he towel, it will get all dirty, so I prefer to remove the most of my makeup with a gel cleanser, and then use the balm. Of course, if you want, you can use it in the morning, too. 

        Jos jedna bitna stvar je da ne treba da koristite isti peskiric dva puta, jer bakterije rastu i razmnozavaju se. Ja imam jedno 10-tak peskirica i cim ih upotrebim, stavim ih negde da se osuse pa ih ubacim u posebnu korpicu u kupatilu i jednom nedeljno ih iskuvam sa malo praska. Takodje, ako imate puno sminke na licu, kada se obrisete peskiricem, on ce da bude jako prljav, tako da je vise volim da veci deo sminke uklonim gelom za umivanje pa onda tek upotrebim balzam. Naravno, ako zelite, mozete da ga koristite i ujutru kada se umivate. 





Love,
Marijana

9 comments:

  1. Odlican post! Definitivno cu probati, ali i modifikovati.

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  2. Hvala :) obavezno javi kako je ispalo

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  3. Dogovoreno, samo ne mogu nigde da nadjem jojobino ulje. Samo ne znam hoce li mi balzam biti cvrst, posto ne planiram da stavim kokosovo ulje i shea butter?

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  4. Ja sam jojobu kupila sa sajta Melissa biokozmetika,proizvodjac je oshadhi i jako je kvalitetno. Mislim da je 100ml oko 1500. Trebace malo vise voska,probaj 10-11 grama ako pravis proizvod od 60 gr. Ako nisi sigurna, nasipaj ulja u serpicu,pa stavim odredjenu kolicinu voska,sacekaj da se rastopi i potpuno stegne I ako ti tada ne odgovara gustina,opet ga rastopi pa dodaj sta mislis da treba (vise ulja ili vise voska). Ali nemoj da dodajes etericna ulja dok nisi 100% zadovoljna gustinom.

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  5. E vazi, obavezno cu da probam. Mislim da cu staviti samo malo cajevca. A gde si uzela ovo ricinusovo ulje? Kakvo je ono koje se prodaje po apotekama?

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  6. Ja ovo Pukka kupujem sa echemist.com, imaju besplatan shipping i znam da je ulje sigurno organsko. Sto se nasih tice, ne znam da li su organska, pitala sam par puta u apoteci i samo me pogledaju u fazonu 'odakle pa ja znam'. Iskreno, ako imas karticu, preporucujem ti da kupis ovo, cena je ispod 6 funti i kada sve izracunas ispada gotovo isto da li kupila kod nas ili narucila a ipak znas da je ovo Pukkino organsko i sigurno kvalitetnije.

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  7. ispravka, nije echemist.com nego http://www.echemist.co.uk/

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  8. Fantastican post i vrlo zanimljiv! Mozda i probam :)

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